Showing posts with label crochet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label crochet. Show all posts

Sunday, February 12, 2017

Free Crochet Pattern - Crazy Frog Hat for kids going through chemo

CRAZY FROG HAT - CHEMO HAT FOR KIDS
by Darleen Hopkins

Edging A
Edging B

Edging C


**Please use cotton yarn for softness on tender skin.**

**Lion Brand CottonEase and Bernat CottonTots are great yarns for this project. Unfortunately, both have been discontinued. Use a similar, soft yarn in worsted weight for this project.**

**Red Heart Super Saver, although great for many projects, is NOT a good yarn for chemo hats.**

Check out Halos of Hope's Yarn Recommendations list.

Please note, this pattern is copyrighted and may not be reproduced or redistributed. Completed hats may NOT be sold as the distribution of this free pattern is to promote awareness of the need for fun children’s chemo hats. Please make one for Halos of Hope or another organization that collects and distributes kids’ chemo hats. For more information and where to donate, please go to www.halosofhope.org.

YARN/NOTIONS:
Lion Brand CottonEase, 50% cotton, 50% acrylic, 3.5 oz skein, or equivalent (worsted, 4)
1 skein Lime/green (main color)
Small amount white (eye color), black (eye color and mouth) and red (optional tongue)
Stitch marker
Small amount of poly-fiberfill

SKILL LEVEL: Easy.  Must be able to work in the round.

CROCHET HOOKS:
I/9 (5.50 mm)
H/8 (5.00 mm) or size needed to obtain correct gauge
G/6 (4.25mm)
F/5 (3.75mm)

GAUGE: If your final diameter is 6-6½ inches, your hat will fit most kids 5 years old to teen. Hats should be about 1 inch less than the desired head circumference.  100% cotton yarns stretch less and may need to be made closer to actual head circumference. When measuring gauge/diameter, always place the tape measure at the last stitch made and then measure through the middle, directly across for an accurate measurement.
Circumference = 3.141592 X diameter

Use the following chart as a guideline:
hat chart sizing for kids


SIZES:
Small/Medium: Fits approximate 19”-20½” head circumference (3 years-6 years)
Finished measurements ~ approximate 18¾” circumference, 7” length

Medium/Large: Fits approximate 20½”-22” head circumference (5 years-teen)
Finished measurements ~ approximate 20½” circumference, 7½” length

NOTES: Pattern is written in US terms.

Unless otherwise noted, the hat and eyes are worked in a continuous spiral, do not join rounds. Mark the beginning of each round.

ABBREVIATIONS, SPECIAL STITCHES & TECHNIQUES:
Rnd(s) = round(s)
Ch = chain
Sl st = slip stitch
Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet

Magic circle/adjustable ring = See tutorial at http://crochetbydarleenhopkins.com/2013/01/23/magic-circle-aka-adjustable-ring-how-to/

Invisible decrease = Invisible decrease should be worked when the right side is facing. Insert hook under front loop of first stitch. Insert hook under front loop of second stitch. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook.

Reverse single crochet (optional) = Without turning work, single crochet in opposite direction, to the right if right-handed, and to the left if left-handed.

HAT
Both Sizes: Green yarn and H hook
Rnd 1) Using magic circle/adjustable ring method, see above, ch 1 then work 8 sc into ring. Tighten.
Rnd 2) 2 Hdc in each sc around. (16 stitches)
Rnd 3) *Hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc; repeat from * 7 more times around. (24 stitches)
Check gauge, 2” diameter.
Rnd 4) *Hdc in next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc; repeat from * 7 more times around. (32 stitches)
Rnd 5) *Hdc in next 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc; repeat from * 7 more times around. (40 stitches)
Check gauge, 3½” diameter.
Rnd 6) *Hdc in next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc; repeat from * 7 more times around. (48 stitches)
Rnd 7) *Hdc in next 5 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc; repeat from * 7 more times around. (56 stitches)
Check gauge, 5” diameter.

Small/Medium only
Rnd 8) *Hdc in next 6 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc; repeat from * 7 more times around. (64 stitches)
(See gauge note) Check gauge, 6” diameter.
Rnds 9-20) *Hdc in next hdc; repeat from * around. (64 stitches)
Rnd 21) *Hdc in next hdc; repeat from * for 60 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, sl st in last 2 stitches. (64 stitches) Continue to Edging.

Choose 1 of 3 Edgings-
Edging A) Continue with H hook, [sc-ch 3] in each stitch. Break off yarn and work in ends. (64 [sc-ch 3] repeats)

Edging B) Switch to I hook, sl st in each front loop of previous round. Break off yarn and work in ends. (64 stitches)

Edging C) Continue with H hook, ch 1 then reverse sc in each stitch. Break off yarn and work in ends. (64 stitches)

Medium/Large only

Rnd 8) *Hdc in next 6 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc; repeat from * 7 more times around. (64 stitches)
(See gauge note) Check gauge, 6” diameter.
Rnd 9) Round 9 is a ½ round.* Hdc in next 7 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc; repeat from * 3 more times around. (36 stitches) Mark as new beginning of round. Check gauge, 6½” diameter.
Rnds 10-23) * Hdc in next hdc; repeat from * around. (68 stitches)
Rnd 24) *Hdc in next hdc; repeat from * for 64 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, sl st in last 2 stitches. (68 stitches)  Continuing to Edging.

Choose 1 of 3 Edgings-
Edging A) Continue with H hook, sc-ch 3 in each stitch. Break off yarn and work in ends. (68 sc-ch 3 repeats)

Edging B) Switch to I hook, sl st in each front loop of previous round. Break off yarn and work in ends. (68 stitches)

Edging C) Continue with H hook, ch 1 then reverse sc in each stitch. Break off yarn and work in ends. (68 stitches)

Both Sizes
EYES (make 2) G hook
Rnd 1) Black yarn-using magic circle/adjustable ring method, see above, ch 1 then work 8 sc into ring, sl st to the first stitch in the round to join. Tighten and break off yarn.
Rnd 2) Join white yarn in any stitch, ch 1 and then 2 sc in each sc around.  Sl st to the first stitch in the round to join. (16 stitches) Break off yarn.

Work rounds 3 - 6 in a continuous spiral, do not join rounds. Mark the beginning of each round.

Rnd 3) Join green yarn in any stitch, ch 1 *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * 7 more times around. (24 stitches) This is a good point to tie off ends on the inside of the eye.
Rnds 4-6) *Sc in next sc; repeat from * around. (24 stitches)

Switch to F hook

Rnd 7) *Sc in next sc, invisible decrease; repeat from * 7 more times around. (16 stitches)
Rnd 8) Invisible decrease 8 times around. (8 stitches) Stuff eye with poly-fiberfill.
Rnd 9) Invisible decrease 4 times. (4 stitches) Break off yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

OPTIONAL TONGUE
H hook and red yarn, ch 6.

Rnd 1) Sc in second chain from hook. Sc across then continuing on the opposite side of the same chain, sc across. (10 stitches)
Rnds 2) - 5) Sc in each sc. (10 stitches each round) end with a sl st. Break off yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. If you would like to make a longer tongue, repeat rnds 2 -5 until you reach the desired length.

ASSEMBLY
Using the photos as a guide, attach the eyes. I like to position the eyes toward the front, in between the crown increases, evenly spaced at about round 9 or 10. Also, tack the eyes so they are “looking” forward, not off to the side or up. Stitch the frog’s mouth/tongue on the front of the hat. Either hand stitch or work surface stitches with an H hook. Work in ends as smoothly as possible and then donate the hat :)
Enjoy!




Saturday, November 9, 2013

Free Crochet Pattern - Best Little Dishcloth EVER!


Free Crochet Pattern - Best Little Dishcloth EVER!


This pattern originally appeared in the Fall issue of Crochetvolution, 2013.

Please note, this pattern is copyrighted and may not be reproduced or redistributed.

Want to be the first to know about my latest FREE patterns? Sign up for RSS or subscribe via email (see sidebar). On Facebook? "Like" for all sorts of crochet fun, updates and coupon codes.  Join the Crochet by Darleen Hopkins newsletter, http://crochetbydarleenhopkins.com/newsletter/.

The Sponge vs. The Dishcloth.

Some people feel very strongly about one or the other. Me-I prefer sponges and don’t care for dishcloths. I always found them too big and bulky and they slopped the soapy water all over the place. I always liked sponges; so small and compact they could fit inside my reusable water bottles to clean them and also tackle the dishes without a hitch. But sponges are icky. We’ve all heard or read the reports about how kitchen sponges and dishcloths are breeding grounds for bacteria. So what are we supposed to do? Use a sponge once then throw it out? Use paper towels? Not only is that wasteful, but expensive too. The eco-conscious, thrifty, crafty lady inside me knew there was a better way. Designing my own perfect dishcloth was the only logical solution. The result: a handmade dishcloth, small enough to work like a sponge but machine washable so it could be replaced daily. It doesn’t get any easier than this!

The Best Little Dishcloth EVER! Make a stack of them and pull out a fresh, clean, germ-free one as needed-at least once a day or more often if you do a lot of cooking and cleaning throughout the day. They are small enough to be laundered with your regular laundry and not take up much space at all.

Want a cute gift idea? Make a week’s worth and pair them up with some handmade soap. Tie with raffia and you’ve got an instant handmade gift.


FINISHED SIZE: 4.5” X 5”

MATERIALS:
  • Bernat Handicrafter Cotton Twists [100% cotton; 603yd/551m per 12oz/340g skein]  One dishcloth uses approximately ½ oz or 25 yards of yarn.
  • H/5.0mm hook

GAUGE: Not important

NOTES: Written with standard US stitches.
  • Ch-chain
  • Sc-single crochet
Working in the Back Bump.
By working the 1st row of stitches in the back bump of the chain, the result is a nicer finished edge that matches the top edge. If you have trouble with this, work in the chain as you normally would. It isn’t essential to the project.  If you would like to see a video on this method, please visit this page: http://crochetbydarleenhopkins.com/2013/06/14/starting-crochet-working-in-the-back-bump-video-how-to/
PATTERN
Ch 21
http://freecrochetpatternsbydarleen.blogspot.com/
1) Work in the back bump, see below. Sc-ch 1 in 2nd ch from hook, skip next ch, *sc-ch 1, skip next ch; repeat from * 7 more times, sc twice. Ch 1 and turn. (20 stitches)
 2-18) Sc-ch 1 in 1st, skip next stitch, *sc-ch 1 in the ch 1 space from the previous row, skip next stitch; repeat from * 7 more times, sc in ch 1 in space from previous row, sc in last, ch 1 and turn. (20 stitches)
After row 18, break off yarn, work in ends and scrub away.